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Wood floors are a very popular selection for home-improvement projects these days. It’s not hard to see why they are so popular, as they have a beautiful, natural appearance, and are comfortable to walk on. They can be a little more difficult to install than some other more simple flooring materials, but they are still well within reach of the ability of most average homeowners.

The one thing that you have to understand about wood floors is that water and moisture are its enemies. So a wood floor will fare best in a moisture free environment. You even have to be careful when it comes to cleaning your wood floors so that excess water or moisture doesn’t seep into the cracks and cause problems later on.

There are a few different kinds of wood flooring to choose from and we will try to discuss each one to help you get more familiar with them.

First of all, let’s talk about strip flooring. This may be what you most often think of when you think of hardwood flooring. Strip flooring is made up of boards that are usually 3/4 inches thick and 2 1/4 inches in width. They are designed as tongue and groove boards that fit very closely together as they are installed. As you put down each board, you simply place a nail through the tongue of the board to hold it down, and when the groove of the next board fits up next to it, the nail will be covered. As with most kinds of wood flooring, strip flooring benefits from having a solid subfloor installed underneath to hold it in place. Often subfloors are made up of 3/4 inch to one inch plywood sheets that are nailed down first.

Plank flooring is very similar to strip flooring except that the boards can come in random widths of 3 in. or more. The length is usually around two to 8 ft.

Parquet flooring is very popular these days as it features dozens of patterns, textures, and thicknesses. Very often, parquet flooring consists of a veneer of decorative hardwood glued in patterns to squares of softwood backing, then laid on a subfloor. It can be very easy to install, and yet still has the look of a custom designed floor. The subfloor must be very clean and dry in order to get proper adhesion for the parquet floor that goes on top. Sometimes adhesive must be spread on the subfloor first as you install the parquet tiles, and sometimes the adhesive comes as a backing on the parquet tiles themselves.

Floating floors are becoming very popular too, as you don’t have to actually fasten it down to a subfloor. Instead the plastic laminate material is interlocked and placed on top of a thin foam pad that in turn rests on a subfloor made up of plywood or concrete. Laminate is very durable, and scratch resistant and can tolerate moisture much better than true hardwood floors. With proper tools the average homeowner would be able to install a floating floor fairly easily.

So which wood floor is best for you? Only you can answer that question, but hopefully the information we have provided will help you make your decision and be able to choose the best ood floor for your home.

Thad Pickering writes on many consumer related topics including home improvement. You can find best laminate flooring and cheap laminate flooring by visiting our Home Improvement website.

[tags]home improvement, home repair, flooring, ceramic tile, wood floor, remodeling[/tags]

Call me crazy but I love cleaning. I have this need (my husband would say obsession) with creating a dust-free, pristine environment that smells really good. I like to consider myself a cleaning diva. I can honestly tell you that my need to have my surroundings clean goes back to my toddler years. My parents captured me in all my house-cleaning glory for posterity. They snapped dozens and dozens of photos of me running around the house broom in hand tidying up. Fast forward way too many years into the future and now my husband has to deal with my house cleaning “obsession”. The first few years of marriage he would get upset with my “tidying up” which meant moving all his perceived clutter in order for me to creating a Zen like mood in the house. He has since come to accept that I need order and cleanliness or my Feng Shui (CHI) energy will be off-kilter. And that is just not a good thing.

I realize that I am not alone. There are thousands of women and some men out there that strive to keep their surroundings clean and organized. In the spirit of helping them achieve that goal I have compiled a list of my must have cleaning products and tools.

FLOORS

• Bissell HEPA and Bagless Vacuum - Reasonably priced. Works great.
• Swiffer Dry - A must have tool in every Cleaning Diva’s cleaning kit. DUAL USE PRODUCT:The Swiffer sheets are very versatile. Aside from using them with your swiffer stick you can use them for dusting.
• Swiffer Wet - Again an awesome tool. No nasty mops or dirty sloshing water.

KITCHEN

Over the years my love of Pine Sol type cleaning products and their rich chemically smell have been replaced by more eco-friendly, human-friendly, animal-friendly nature based products. Today you will find mostly natural based products in my cleaning kit. They are a bit pricier but I believe my home and I are worth it.

• Dish Soap: The Good Home Company in Paris Rain fragrance.
• Surface Cleaners: The Good Home Company in Paris Rain fragrance and Caldrea in Green Tea Patchouli fragrance.
• Hand Soap : Pre de Provence in Verbenia fragrance. I am addicted to this fresh clean smelling liquid soap. I use it frequently and it NEVER dries my skin out.
• Garbage Disposer: No matter how well you clean the garbage disposer it somehow acquires a nasty funky stench. I have two solutions that I alternate. Once a week I chop up a lemon and toss it into the disposer. It helps degrease and neutralizes any stinkiness that may be emanating from the garbage disposer. Once a month I use Disposer Care. It takes all of two minutes and deep cleans all the grungy built up debris and grease that finds it way into the garbage disposer.

LAUNDRY

LINEN, BEDDING & DELICATES

• Laundry Detergent: The Good Home Company Lavender. This is a slightly pricey product about $23.00 for 64 FL OZ but it delivers big time.
• Laundry Softener: The Good Home Company Lavender Laundry Fragrance. As mentioned about the Lavender laundry detergent above it is expensive at $23.00 for 64 FL OZ but worth every last penny. Just try it once on your linens and you will find a way to afford this product.

CLOTHES

• Laundry Detergent: ALL Free. I recently switched from being an extremely loyal (8 years) Tide user to ALL Free last year. I really love this product. It is reasonably priced and doesn’t irritate my very sensitive skin.
• Laundry Softener : ALL Free dryer sheets. I never just use one. I add two or three sheets to each dryer load. I like my clothes soft and with minimal wrinkles. In case you’re wondering, I like clean, I never said that I like ironing. I outsource ironing as much as I can.
  DUAL USE PRODUCT: The dryer sheets can also be used to pick up animal hair. I have two cats that leave fur all over the house. I have tried other products specifically for animal hair but to date the best is just a plain old dryer sheet.
• Bleach/ Whitener/ Brightener:
  I use OXY Clean. I ignored this product for a long time. I was turned off by the stupid hard sell commercials (note to advertisers screaming does not make me believe you more so please tone it down). Regardless, one day I was out of Clorox Bleach and I asked my mom if I could borrow some bleach until I could get to the grocery store. She shows up with the OXY Clean and I just flipped. I asked for bleach and she brought me this thing. I had visions of the last “As seen on TV” product my gullible family boughtthe twisty turban. Pressed for time I took the OXY Clean, read the directions and started the laundry. I then prayed that my clothes wouldn’t disintegrate. In the end I was pleasantly surprised. I actually like the product. It didn’t smell bad and it did brighten my whites quite nicely. So there you have it the story of how OXY Clean became part of my coveted cleaning kit.

BATHROOM

I break from my natural-based cleaning products here. The bathroom can be a dirty germ and mildew infested mess and that means calling in some strong cleaning products.

• X-14 : Nothing cleans mildew, soap scum and whatever other nastiness lies in your shower and tub area like X-14. When using this product keep the room ventilated and the bathroom fan running. Wear gloves. Always follow the manufacturer’s directions.
• Windex No-Streak: As far as I am concerned the best product on the market for windows, glass and mirrors.
• Toilet Cleaner: Throw the brush away. That’s all I have to say. I prefer the Scrubbing Bubbles disposable toilet cleaning kit.
• Air Freshener: Air Wick Automatic Room Spray. LOVE IT. LOVE IT. LOVE IT. Citrus and the new Mango fragrances are my favorite. You can set this little modern marvel of house cleaning science to dispense bursts of freshly scented fragrance at intervals of 30 minutes, 18 minutes and 9 minutes.

Now you are ready to go make the world a better place one clean home at a time. For those of you who have a spouse and/or child who isn’t quite ready to accept your Cleaning Divaness than I suggest the always effective shut the door on their dirty and cluttered domain. If you give them a room that isn’t spic and span, sparkly clean and fresh, a place where they don’t feel burdened and suffocated by your need for clean and order they will be happier for it and so will you. Just fight the temptation to go in and tidy up a bit.

Carmen Natschke is an award winning designer and co-founder of roominakit.com an online home decor shop and decorating resource. Carmen is passionate about decorating and has shared that passion with hundreds of women through her Decorating Divas workshops and seminars. She is currently working on her book “Decorate Like A Pro” which is based on the innovative approach to decorating taught in her workshops and seminars.

[tags]house cleaning, kitchen cleaning, bathroom cleaning, clean home[/tags]

Bathrooms are a particularly dangerous part of the home. It’s a dangerous place for falls and injuries to occur. Common bathroom accidents include scalds, fainting from heat, falls on slippery floors, and head injuries from falling against bathroom fixtures. It is important to install devices designed to prevent accidents such as grab bars, bath mats, and bath rails.

Here are some tips to help you improve safety in your bathroom:

1. Bathroom doors locked from the inside can delay important medical intervention if an accident occurs. Make sure the bathroom has an easy way to unlock the door from the outside.

2. The bathroom is the most likely area of a household where a person may fall. Bathroom floors can be very slippery if they get wet. It is not always easy to see the wet area. Nonslip floors in the bathroom will help prevent slips and falls. Don’t have loose rugs on bathroom floors. Remove any throw rugs from the bathroom and all corridors leading to the bathroom. Placing non-skid adhesive strips in the tub or on the floor of the bathroom is an easy and inexpensive way to prevent falls.

3. Install grab bars to help you get in and out of the bathtub or shower. Grab bars can help prevent falls. Check existing bars for strength and stability, and repair if necessary.

4. A light switch near the door will prevent you from walking through a dark area. Consider replacing the existing switch with a “glow switch” that can be seen in the dark.

5. Always test the temperature of the bath or shower water with your hand before you get in. The heat from the hot water in the bath or shower could make you lightheaded, so don’t stay in the water too long. Water temperature above 120 degrees can cause tap water scalds. Lower the setting on your hot water heater to “Low” or 120 degrees.

6. As far as electricity is concerned, the bathroom is possibly the most dangerous room in the house. Water is a very efficient conductor of electrical current which makes the combination of water and electricity potentially lethal. Don’t place a plug-in radio, a compact disk player, or a cassette tape player near your bath and don’t allow electric cords to trail where people can trip on them. Always make sure that your bathroom is well lit and invest in several night lights.

Even an appliance that is not turned on, such as a hairdryer, can be potentially hazardous if it is left plugged in. If it falls into water in a sink or bathtub while plugged in, it could cause a lethal shock.

7. Many falls occur when a person is rushing to get to the toilet. It is easy to skid on a wet floor or a loose mat around the base of the toilet. Use the toilet before it becomes a matter of urgency.

8. People with a wide variety of physical and mental impairments may require some modification of the bathroom to improve safe access to the toilet. Bathrooms should be modified to compensate for the person’s altered mobility.

Clive Chansa writes for the Bathrooms and Tiles website at
http://www.bathroom-tiles.org.uk/
and also contributes articles and product reviews at
http://www.plumbing-supplies-uk.co.uk/ regularly.

[tags]bathroom, safety, home safety, diy[/tags]

I work for the housekeeping department in one of the most reputed hotels in my town and mattresses are my specialty. Everything from purchasing decision to their maintenance is handled by me. So, I guess I should not be surprised if every other day one of my friends or their friends calls up to asks me “How do I clean the mattress?”. Everyone wants a tip on how to clean the mattress.

As I kept repeating these tips time after time, I realized that there might be others who would want to know how to clean the mattress. So hear is what I learnt:

How to clean the mattress: Step 1-Prevention is better than cure

You must use a mattress pad. That is the first step to cleaning a mattress. Make sure that it is easy to wash and easy to remove and fit back.

How to clean the mattress: Step 2-Good old vacuuming

Vacuum the mattress often. Vacuum its sides, the box springs and every nook and corner. You set a routine. Vacuum the mattress every time you take mattress pad out to wash.

How to clean the mattress: Step 3-Flip and rotate

Flip the mattress and rotate it from time to time. This prevents rough use of the mattress and the pressure zones don’t get defined.

How to clean the mattress: Step 4- Stains and pains

Stains are inevitable; if you must clean them try using mild soaps. It would be even better if you could get upholstery shampoo.

How to clean the mattress: Step 5- The trade secret
We use something called Dry Suds to get rid of stubborn stains. It is easy to make. Mix a little detergent with warm water, beat it up in a beater. Now remove the froth and the stuff that remains is ideal to clean these stains.

How to clean the mattress: Step 6 Dry is Clean

Make sure that your mattress and mattress pads are dry and clean. You can occasionally air them in sun. If you work in the hotel industry like me and have to dry the mattresses at short notice before the customer arrives, there is nothing like a blow dryer. The hair dryer is ok at such times but it does not have the anti-bacterial properties of the sun. So drying it out in the sun is definitely the best option.

To learn lots of information about mattresses including various types of mattresses, sizes, tips and mattress ratings visit Allan’s site at: Poking Around The Home

[tags]Clean mattress, mattress, cleaning[/tags]

It is difficult to determine a criterion, according to which a cultivated plant can be called fashionable. A new discovery of stock-breeders? A bright hybrid? An exotic, which settled in our latitudes recently? And may be this is a strange flower, which seeds you have been dreaming to find since you saw it in someone’s garden for the first time? Let’s hope a beginner will blend with your garden’s palette in harmony, and, very soon, it will attract delighted glances of neighbors and guests, who will definitely ask you: what is this?

A wonderful Aquilegia

Aquilegia (

For those lucky homeowners who have basements, making sure you do everything you can to keep that basement clean and dry is vital for the ongoing stability of your home’s foundation and overall safety of your home’s environment. A number of nasty diseases can spawn from mold and mildew run amok in your damp basement. Here are some aspects to consider when doing a little basement waterproofing.

1. Go straight to the top. Water running off your roof can quickly seep into your basement if proper gutters and drain spouts aren’t installed. Gutters that are clogged or missing can cause a waterfall to land right next to the foundation and eventually seep into the basement walls. Check your gutters regularly for clogged areas or leaky spots and take care of the problem fast. You can install a mesh or plastic screen over the gutters to prevent large objects from getting trapped inside.

2. Where does your water run? Your yard should slope away from the house so that rainwater is also running away from the foundation and not toward it. If necessary, re-grade your lawn so that it drops about 6 inches for every 10 feet. If the equipment isn’t readily available to you, contact a lawn care expert to handle this task.

3. Do you have a window well or egress window? During a rainstorm water can easily collect in those wells and act as a holding tank for moisture against your foundation. You should cover those windows wells with a plastic window well cover. These are a few dollars at any local home improvement store.

4. Sometimes the water comes from inside. Cut down on condensation and internal moisture by using a dehumidifier. It’s also best to insulate your pipes and air conditioning ducts. Basement bathrooms can be a real source of mold and mildew buildup. Clean the bathroom regularly and properly ventilate the room so the moisture doesn’t have a chance to collect.

Once you’ve established that your basement is clean, dry and protected, revisit this area of your home regularly to stay ahead of any new problems that might develop. Your home and family will thank you for it.

Waterproofing is a critical step that can save your home. Visit the basement waterproofing site for more guidance. Learn about more remodeling projects at DIY Home Remodeling.

[tags]basement waterproofing, foundation waterproofing, home improvement, home repair[/tags]

Thomas Chippendale was born in 1718. Considered as a great adapter, he took the best ideas of his time and incorporated it into his own ideas and designs and gave the Master’s touch to the completed product. He was a carver of fine wood and his workshop produced some of the finest English furniture of its day. He wasn’t just a good carver and a cabinetmaker, he was a good businessman as well. He published a book of his furniture designs and had his wares advertised. His book became a best seller that doubled his customers in number. His name became a by-word and rich Englishmen sought for his work. They only wanted furniture produced by Chippendale’s workshop. Chippendale’s name became a valuable asset - he was the first English cabinetmaker who carried such value in his name like an artist on a great painting.

Chippendale’s book of furniture designs entitled “Gentleman and Cabinet Maker’s Director” became the english cabinetmaker’s bible. Most cabinetmakers during Chippendale’s time copied his works using his drawings as models for their own work because there was so much demand from customers for his designs so they had better supply what the customers demanded. That’s why most of the furniture we refer to today as Chippendale was not actually made by the Master himself nor coming from his workshop but rather made by other cabinetmakers who adapted his designs. Chippendale undertook a very wide range of different types of designs which makes it difficult to actually pin point the “Chippendale look” with great certainty.

Chippendale is considered the great adapter. Inspired by the styles of others, he adapted them in a special way that would meet the desires and needs of his vast clientele. Starting with the Early Georgian Period, Chippendale adapted them by simplifying their lines and lightening their looks. He gave more grace and charm to the design. Chippendale’s chair designs probably won him the greatest acclaim and it is for these classic designs that his name endures. Chippendale tried so many designs and was imitated by so many cabinet makers that it is very difficult to pin down a piece of furniture as being absolutely Chippendale.

The following are important clues to look for in the Chippendale style:

1. Rococo Motifs with open carved backs. The rococo style of Louis XV is one major influence in Chippendale designs. He took the French design of Louis XV and adapted it for a more English taste. Although more often it is only possible for a connoisseur to distinguish Chippendale’s English rococo from that of the French Rococo. One clue is that Chippendale chairs, for example featured carved mahogany backs while the French chairs have upholstered backs.

2. Chinese is the second major influence in the Chippendale designs. Some chairs would reflect an outline of a pagoda roof on its back rest. Others have fretwork on the chair back that is usually a direct copy of an elegant Chinese design of the period. As already known, Chippendale was widely imitated during his period and any piece that reflects the same motif can rightly be called Chinese Chippendale even if it doesn’t come from the Master’s workshop.

3. Gothic Influence. The use of Gothic motifs is the third major influence in the Chippendale design. The pointed arch that epitomizes the Gothic cathedral is the most familiar of these Gothic motifs.

4. Open Pediment. The curved open pediment top is one design motif that is usually attributed to Chippendale. This is often seen in the top of casepieces. Today we often refer to it as “Chippendale clock” since he often used this design in his tall grandfather’s clock. The open pediment design was not invented by Chippendale himself but rather a design that was already introduced during the Queen Anne period. Since Chippendale was the first to use it extensively, he has been firmly identified with that design motif.

Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Furniture

[tags]furniture[/tags]

Pressed glass, Depression glass and crystal this month we’ll review the basics of these different types of glass and some tips on telling the difference.

History

Glass was first recorded being made in ancient Rome, Egypt and Syria. It was made by heating and fusing sand, potash or soda with lime.

Types of Glass

Soda glass, potash glass and lead glass are the three main types of glass.

Soda glass

Starting in the 13th century, soda glass was made in Venice. Glassmakers were able to form molten glass into elaborate shapes because it contained burned seaweed, making the glass very malleable.

Potash glass

Potash glass came from northern Europe. Potash was made from a combination of burned wood and bracken making the glass well suited for engraving and cutting.

Lead glass (crystal, lead crystal)

Starting in Europe in the 17th century, lead glass was developed. It was derived from adding lead oxide to potash glass. The words lead glass, lead crystal and crystal all mean the same thing. Crystal is simply a type of glass. It is the addition of lead to mix that makes crystal harder than regular glass. Crystal is less likely to have bubbles, which is helpful when cutting

Pressed glass

Popularized during the Victoria era, pressed glass is made from a mould and is less valuable than cut glass. You can identify pressed glass from the mould line that is visible and the less sharply faceted decoration.

Depression glass

Popularized during the Great Depression, companies such as Hocking Glass, Federal and MacBeth-Evans mass-produced this form of pressed glassware. It was often given away free as a gift with purchase. There are many colours and patterns available.

Decoration on glass

There are four types of decorations used to adorn glass: cutting, enamelling, gilding and engraving.

Cutting

Facets cut into glass reflect light and create sparkle. One tip to help date a piece of glass is to look for shallow surface cuts which were used in the earliest days of glass cutting.

Enamelling

In the 15th century, the Venetians popularized the enamelling of glass that is a process of painting on glass.

Gilding

It is a technique of adding gold decoration to glass that was often done by firing the gold onto a glass surface.

Engraving

It was done by diamond point engraving (scratching the design onto the surface of the glass using a diamond nib), wheel engraving (scratching the design on the surface of the glass using small copper wheels rotating against the surface) stipple engraving (scratching the design onto the surface of the glass using fine diamond needle that taps out the design in a series of dots and lines) or acid etching (scratching the design on the surface of glass using a sharp tool then subjecting the glass to hydrofluoric acid which etched the design onto the glass).

How to tell crystal from cut glass

Weight is the number one tip-off that something is crystal rather than glass. The lead in crystal makes it is heavier than cut glass. The telltale ping when you flick your fingernail against crystal is another way to tell crystal from glass.

Why is modern-day crystal less brilliant than antique crystal

Crystal made in the early 1900s contains about 25 to 28 percent lead. Modern crystal contains only 10 to 12 percent lead. This reduction in the lead content makes modern crystal less brilliant than antique crystal.

How to tell if it is early glass

Old engraving will look dark and grey against a white background. New glass engraving will not look grey against a white background.

Spotting reproductions

There are many reproductions circulating because modern glassmakers made imitations of 18th century glass. There is nothing wrong with reproductions as long as you know that is what you are buying. You can spot reproductions three ways:

Colour

Reproductions may not have the distinctive tint caused by natural occurring impurities. Use the white background test; if the engraving looks grey against the white, the item is likely to be old.

Manufacturing signs

Machine-made glass will not have the rough bump under the stem that hand-blown glass will have. This bump results from the item being removed from the glassblower’s rod. Also, hand-blown glass might have imperfections such as uneven thickness, ripples or striations that machine-made glass does not have.

Proportions

Styles and proportions have varied over the years. One thing to look for is that the foot on antique glass is often as wide as the bowl.

Value

Glass and crystal are one collectible where the secondary market is more affordable than the primary market. The reason is supply and demand. Plenty of crystal was made over the years, plenty of people took good care of it, and, as a result plenty of it is still around.

Martin Swinton owns Take-A-Boo Emporium, an antique shop located in Toronto, Canada. He does furniture restoration, caning and rushing repairs, custom reproductions, upholstery, teaches courses on antiques and does appraisals for estates and community events. He can be reached at 416-785-4555 or by visiting http://www.takeaboo.com

[tags]antique, collectible, glass, depression, soda, crystal, pressed, vintage, old, kitchen[/tags]

Choosing furniture for a five-room house can be a daunting task. Especially with all the new furniture trends, styles and furniture designs that seem to sprout unceasingly on home furniture shop’s display windows, a perplexed housewife can spend endless hours window shopping for furniture in three different states and still go home with nothing.

How do you cut around the time-and money-consuming task of selecting furniture for your new home? Here are four important considerations to think about before donning on your combat boots and hitting town for the nearest furniture shop:

1. Budget - It is important to know beforehand how much you are willing to pay for a piece of furniture. Knowing the budget, it becomes easier for you to enter into a furniture shop, ask assistance from sales persons to point you in the direction where your budget takes you. There is no use on spending the entire day looking into a piece of furniture, deciding to buy them, only to back out later when you find out that it is beyond your budget.

2. Room Owner - Another important consideration when trying to select a piece of furniture is the room owner or the owner you are buying the furniture for. When selecting a comfortable chair for a corner reading nook for your six-year old son, it is impractical, of course, to select an upholstered couch no matter how cheap a bargain it may be. What would be more practical and appropriate for a six-year old boy’s room with a penchant for mischief and rowdiness? Perhaps a comfortable, low plastic chair would be more appropriate. It is cheap, as well as functional.

3. Color - Colors are important when choosing furniture. They add to the overall theme of the room. Colors can also speak much on the personality of the room. Dark, somber shades would often suggest the grave, serious personality of the room occupant. Light, cool colors would suggest the carefree and youthful personality of the room occupant.

4. Furniture material - When selecting home furniture, always opt for furniture that can easily be cleaned and maintained especially if you have rowdy kids and pets in the house.

When selecting home furniture, you need not get a degree in interior designing
and neither do you need the assistance of a brilliant rocket scientist. All you need is a list of the things you can afford, a sensible head between your shoulders and a dependable combat boots to tackle the furniture world.

JB Anthony is the webmaster of http://www.fashionandfurniture.com. For more product links, fashion jewelry reviews, updates, articles, information, please visit http://www.fashionandfurniture.com.

[tags]selecting furniture, home furniture, buying furniture, furniture[/tags]

Worktops and Countertops for Kitchens - Buyers Guide to Materials

The worktop or countertop is not only necessary for a kitchen it is also an integral part of its design. Food preparation can deliver a large amount of wear and tear to the surfaces in the kitchen. Within this article we look at the various materials used for countertops and discuss the reasons for choosing them for your kitchen. Whether its durability, hygiene or cost, you can find both the advantages and disadvantages of each material below.

Laminate Worktops

This in expensive option is a very popular choice for kitchen countertops and it comes in a variety of colors and textures. It isn’t that hard wearing and can get scratched or burned, and gets dirty very easily. It is not built to last. If you do choose laminate you can protect your surfaces with trivets and chopping boards.

Advantages

Fairly Inexpensive.

A wide range of colours and patterns to choose from.

Easy to apply fancy edges.

Stain resistant.

Disadvantages

Not wise to use as a cutting surface or to place hot pans upon.
Cannot be repaired if it gets damaged. It must get replaced.
Noticeable seams because of a dark backing sheet. This is most apparent with light colours.

Granite Worktops

Granite is the most common type of stone used for a countertop. Granite is quarried worldwide, with colors and patterns that reveal the region and the geological conditions that created it. Each slab is unique, with random and inconsistent patterns for a great character and look. It is highly durable, it doesn’t scratch or burn, and it keeps its color. Unfortunately Granite is a very expensive material though the finished look is often well worth the cost.

Advantages

A variety of colours of natural stone.
Extremely durable.
Heat resistant and hard to scratch.

Disadvantages

Expensive
To prevent staining it will need to be resealed.

Stainless Steel Worktops

Often associated with professional kitchens, stainless steel is stylish and contemporary. Steel is highly durable and can be shaped in many ways to fit your kitchen. The backsplash and the sink can be made out of the same piece of steel, ensuring that there are no awkward corners or gaps for food to get lost in. Stainless steel is hygienic and is the only surface that can be safely bleached.

Advantages

The only surface that can be safely bleached.
Corrosion proof.
Very durable.
Sinks, draining boards and backsplashes can all be fabricated into the counter top.
Heat proof.
All the joints can be polished for a seamless effect (may cost extra).

Disadvantages

Can scratch and dent (though newer designs can include textured finishes that can hide the scratches).
A high maintenance option.
Expensive.

Wood and Butcher Block Worktops

Wood will always give a great look and add character to your kitchen. On the countertop, however, it is highly susceptible to scratching and cutting. Hot pans will burn it or leave marks, and it can be unhygienic if meat or poultry is prepared on it. However, it is one of the only surfaces that will not damage your knives. Oak, maple, cherry, red beech, walnut, teak, and mahogany are all hardwoods favored for countertop applications.

Advantages

Ideal for cutting on.
Only surface that will not damage your knives.
Very attractive.

Disadvantages

Deep cuts will show but can be sanded out.
Hot pans will burn it or leave marks.
High maintenance. Use mineral oil to renew surface.

Quartz Surfaces: Zodiaq, Cambria and Silestone Worktops

Quartz delivers a great natural look to any kitchen. It is highly durable being resistant to scratches, stains and heat. However this flexibility comes at a price and you can sometimes encounter prices up to 10% higher than that of granite. Quartz surfaces are hygienic because the material is non-porous and so bacteria and mould have nowhere to hide. Three brands to note of are Zodiaq, Cambria and Silestone. Zodiaq comes in 26 colors and has a 10-year warranty. Cambria is made in the USA and is available in 34 colors which are all the same price. Silestone is made by the Spanish company Consentino and is available in 46 colors.

Advantages

Scratch resistant.
Stain resistant.
Heat Resistant.
Looks great.
Does not need to be resealed every few years (unlike granite).

Disadvantages

Expensive (about 10% more than granite).
Set on backsplashes only.

Corian, Avonite and Other Solid Surfaces Worktops

A countertop that consists of a solid plastic all the way through is said to be a solid surface countertop (as opposed to those built up in layers i.e. laminate). They are similar to quartz in that they’re also hardwearing. They are resistant to scratches, scorching and heat. If you do manage to do damage to the countertop you can easily repair it. You can expect to spend about three times more than you would for laminate, and twice as much for wood. A wide range of colors and styles are available to choose from and most suppliers will give you a good guarantee.
Corian is the most famous brand (has been around for 30 years) Avonite has unique color choices.

Advantages

Large variety of colors and edge styles.

You can create your own design on the deck.

Backsplashes can be any height and coved to deck for a very clean look.

Seams are virtually invisible.

The material is renewable and repairable.

Most all brands offer a full, transferable, 10-year warranty.

Disadvantages

Cost is high when all available options are used.

Barry Dunlop is the Founder of Kitchen-Buyers-Guide.com - The site that promises you lots of tips, advice and help to plan, design and buy your dream kitchen! Find out more at his website: http://www.almostimpartialguide.co.uk/kitchens.htm

[tags]kitchen worktops, countertops, corian, Granite, kitchens, Laminate, Avonite[/tags]