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Functionality and aesthetics are the two main objectives of any kitchen remodeling plan. A kitchen must provide an efficient working place, even while it looks good.

Most kitchen designs in vogue for the last few decades have been based on three standard layouts: the U-shaped kitchen, the L-shaped kitchen and the galley kitchen. All of them make use of the classic work-triangle concept that basically positions the three major kitchen components (refrigerator, stove, and sink) in a triangular pattern.

With changing lifestyle and man-woman roles, whereby both wife and husband share home responsibilities, multiple work centers or work stations within the kitchen are gaining popularity in order to allow more than one person to work efficiently without getting in anyone else’s way.

Adding an island is one of the most common ways to have multiple work centers into a kitchen. An island creates two to four small work stations along the perimeter of a kitchen. These stations can become major work centers if a second sink is added.

Placing gadgets and appliances in the kitchen in such a way that they do not obstruct movement is important while preparing remodeling plans. Selecting the cabinetry that best suits your needs and budget, determining whether re-facing or replacing will be your best option would be crucial factors.

The remodeling plan will have to also include scope for new sinks and plumbing, dishwashers, and ovens, ranges, and built-in microwaves. One has to also examine if your exhaust is in the right place and works more efficiently.

You also need to explore if your new kitchen can be remodeled around your existing floor plan or the space needs to be increased to accommodate your appliances and gadgets. Your new kitchen floor needs to be fashioned around the uses, sizes, and footprints of your appliances.

A well-planned and executed kitchen remodeling project can make a significant difference, both in the livability of your home, and in its value.

Kitchen Remodeling Info provides detailed information about kitchen remodeling ideas and costs, including small kitchen remodeling ideas, kitchen cabinet remodeling, and more. Kitchen Remodeling Info is the sister site of Bathroom Remodeling Web.

[tags]kitchen remodeling, kitchen remodeling ideas, small kitchen remodeling ideas[/tags]

Antique beds are rarely set up for today’s queen and king sized mattresses and box springs. Most people want standard queen or king bedding, or at least the old standard, a full or double size.

Between 100 to 150 years ago, before fitted sheets, the exact size of a bed and mattress wasn’t so important. The average height was much shorter, and beds could be any size with feather beds or home-made mattresses.

In the 1890’s, manufactured bedding appeared, and the standard double or full size was around 72″ x 52.” Antique dealers refer to the older, smaller-than-double size beds as “three-quarter,” although they can vary a great deal in size. Complicating the issue are European beds, built to entirely different dimensions.

The common problem is how to enlarge an antique bed to a modern desirable size without ruining the proportions and appearance of the original bed.

Our cabinetmakers have done conversions for many years. We utilize standard brown steel rails for either full/double or queen/king length. We attach these rails to the headboard with bolts that go securely through the headboard itself. Sometimes, we need to add a sturdy piece of wood to have a secure place to bolt the rails. At the footboard, we attach a rugged steel plate fitted with welded-on bolts. (We have never been able to find such plates, so we designed them and have them fabricated in a machine shop.) This application is done on the inside of the footboard so nothing shows from the outside. This enables the steel rails to be attached very securely with nothing showing on the outside of the antique footboard. The bed can then be set up and taken down repeatedly by simply unscrewing the nuts and bolts at each corner.

If it is ever decided to return these “converted” beds to their original sizes using the original wooden rails, the steel fittings can be removed with no visible damage to the bed itself.

Another factor in using antique bed frames for modern standard bedding is the thickness of springs and mattresses. Most bedding stores love to sell very thick or “pillow-top” mattresses that can be too tall and cover much of the beautiful old headboards. If more of the headboard should be showing, thinner mattresses and springs should be ordered from the bedding store. The point is to measure from the steel rails up to the desired top of the mattress to determine what thickness would be ideal before ordering a new mattress. The eventual appearance should be as planned, not the surprise of a foot taller than expected!

Ken Melchert is a co-owner of The Harp Gallery, a renowned antique furniture gallery located in Appleton, WI in the USA. Ken and his wife Rebecca have been selling and restoring superior antique furniture for over 20 years. Visit his store online, The Harp Gallery Antique Furniture

[tags]antique bed, king size, queen size, bedroom furniture, bedroom, antique furniture[/tags]

Many people are not sure when to water their lawn. But don’t wait until it turns brown. Inadequate watering puts your lawn under severe stress, which increases its susceptibility to insects and disease. Instead, develop a regimen for regular watering.

Water before the heat of the day, in the morning, even before sunrise. Watering early gives the water a chance to soak in rather than evaporating away. Plus, if there is some excess water that cannot be absorbed, it will have a chance to evaporate. Watering in the evening allows the water to soak in, but excess water will not evaporate and will foster fungal damage.

It is important to water deeply to encourage deep root growth. Light watering results in roots that stay near the surface, because that is where the water is. The shallow ground dries out quickly and so the lawn will need more frequent watering. The deeper soil remains moist longer and so the lawn is less likely to suffer during a drought. Shallow roots are also considered to be a likely cause of thatch. The soil should be moist about 3 to 4 inches deep.

Avoid over-watering; more people over-water than under-water. You may be one of the people who feel that if a little water is good, then a lot of water is even better. That is not true. The objective is to provide enough water so that the lawn does not thirst. Too much water can carry away nutrients, foster fungal spores and disease and stress the lawn.

Most lawns require one to two inches of water a week. The best way to water, especially to conserve water or if the lawn is on a slope, is to water for 5 minutes on and 15 minutes off, until the desired amount of water is delivered. This gives the water a chance to soak in and reduces runoff.

To determine if you are delivering the proper amount of water, place a few cans around on the lawn to catch the water. Use something that has straight sides so you get an accurate measurement. Tall cans can deflect water, so it is best to use short cans like tuna or cat food cans. Measure the water in the cans and multiply by the number of times a week you water. The result is the number of inches of water being delivered every week. Each can should yield about one to two inches per week depending on temperature, shade and type of grass. Sunny and warm locations will need more water. Remember to include any water from rain in your calculations.

To recap, the best way to water is in the morning, two to four times a week, in short intervals but enough to thoroughly soak the ground. A sprinkler system is the best way to deliver the water because it consistently covers the entire lawn and it can be programmed to deliver the water when and as frequently as needed.

Terry Blackburn. Internet Marketing Consultant, living in South Shields in the North-East of England. Author and Producer of blog http://www.lawnsurgeon.blogspot.com Author of “Your Perfect Lawn,” a 90 Page eBook devoted to Lawn Preparation, Lawn Care and Maintenance. Find it at http://www.lawnsurgeon.com

[tags]lawn,lawn care, lawn maintenance, garden lawn.[/tags]

Most gardeners and landscapers will agree almost unanimously that the single best thing you can do for your lawn is to add compost. Good, organic compost can remedy almost any problem you have with your soil. If you soil is too acidic, adding compost will help neutralize it and bring it back to a proper pH level. If your soil is too alkaline, ditto! Adding compost will help balance the alkalinity in the soil. If you live in an area with a lot of heavy clay, adding compost will help loosen and aerate the soil. If you live in a coastal or southern area with a lot of sand, adding compost will help bind it together. Soil lacking nutrients? Add compost to add new life to overworked soil.

So how do you make compost? It’s easier than you can imagine and cheaper than
anything else you will do. How cheap? How about free! All composting is, is the
natural decomposition of organic matter. Walk through a dense forest and take a
deep handful of soil from under your feet. Notice how black and rich it is. It didn’t
get that way from fertilizers or manure. It got that way from all the decomposing
organic matter. A forest takes care of itself by recycling. It recycles every leaf,
branch, berry, and bush. It does this quite simply. All the organic and living matter
in the forest decomposes into compost which feeds the existing plants (and some
animals!).

In the forest, when leaves fall from the trees, they all gather on the forest floor. In
storms, branches may fall, as well as entire trees. This creates layers of organic
matter on the forest floor. Eventually it rains adding fuel to the mixture. The rain
aids the microbes that begin to eat the organic matter, eventually turning it into the
rich, thick carpet you see on the forest floor. This compost feeds the living trees and
other plants providing nutrients that rival the best fertilizers.

You can emulate the forest by creating your own compost. Avoid store bought
compost, especially those made from manure. There’s nothing natural about
spreading rotted and decomposed cow feces on your lawn or garden. It’s actually
pretty gross! Especially considering the number of chemicals and steroids that are
given to cattle and cows in the United States. If you must purchase or acquire
compost from somewhere else, call your local municipal office. Many municipalities
have their own composting facilities and they give away the compost to their
residents for free! In our township, for example, all the leaves that are gathered in
the fall from the local streets, are mulched up and composted in a huge field. In a
year or two, once the leaves have thoroughly composted, we are permitted to haul
away as much compost as we like! The only catch is that we must load it ourselves,
but this is a small price to pay for free, organic mulch.

Dean Novosat is an avid gardener and landscaper. He has transformed many boring
yards into beautiful landscapes. He has several websites including http://www.the-garden-doctor.com and http://www.dr-landscape.com.

[tags]garden,gardens,gardening,compost,composting,organic,recycle,recycling[/tags]

Garden bulbs are a great way to get color in your garden year after year without having to replant. But many people are intimidated by planting and caring for bulbs, and never get to experience these great flowering plants. These easy tips for planting garden bulbs will show you there is nothing to fear and have you planting your first bulb garden in no time!

Most bulb plants are actually rather hardy and planting them is quite easy. All it takes is a bit of planning and being able to follow the directions on the bulb package. As is the way of nature, your bulbs will really put in an effort to bloom so you really have to screw up to get them to fail.

The most important thing to do to ensure good blooming plants is to read the package. On there you will find the depth that the bulb needs to be planted. This is important because each type of flower likes to be put in at a different depth. As a general rule of thumb, the bigger the bulb the deeper the hole. Usually you will find the directions telling you to plant 3 times as deep as the bulb or 4 times as deep. Each bulb is different so follow the directions for best results.

Another important thing is not to skimp when digging the hole. Be prepared to dig out anywhere from 5 to 10″. It helps to have a good digging tool and to pick a spot where the soil is loose and not full of roots. Loosen up some of the oil around the bulb and plant it with the pointy part up. Of course, it’s not obvious in all bulbs which part is the pointy part but don’t panic if you can’t tell. Just do your best and nature will take over and usually get the flower growing in the right direction.

If you buy bulbs ahead of time, store them in a cool dry place and keep them in the package until you are actually digging the hole for them. This way you will be able to tell which bulbs you are planting. If you take them out, you might get confused as to which is the tulip and which is the daffodil as many bulbs can look amazingly similar.

Most bulbs like to be planted in full sun and always in soil with good drainage. It’s a good idea to decide on where you will be planting the bulbs before you buy them so you know how many to get. You don’t want them to be overcrowded at fist as they will multiply over time. Be sure to read the package to determine how far apart they should be planted and the optimum conditions for the type of flower you are planting.

Preparing the soil is another important step in planting bulbs. You want to loosen the soil in the bulb hole and mix in some compost or organic matter. Don’t put fertilizer in the hole as this can damage the young roots and it is not necessary - your plant has all the nutrients it needs right inside the bulb!

Place the bulb in the hole and cover loosely with dirt. Dig a shallow moat around the bulb and water thoroughly so that the moat is full. Let the moat drain then fill in the rest of the soil and pack lightly. Give it a final thorough watering and you’re done!

Planning your bulb garden is important for antithetic purposes. Put the taller bulbs in back and the shorter ones in front. If you have a garden that can be viewed from all sides then put the taller bulbs in the middle. Since most bulbs only bloom for a few weeks, you need to include bulbs with all different bloom times in your garden. Buy bulbs that bloom in early spring, late spring, early summer and late summer and plant them all in the same area for color all season long. You can plant them next to each other or even in the same hole. If you time things perfectly, you will have one plant starting to bloom as another is ending.

Keeping your bulbs healthy and vibrant is easy. Remember to water them per instructions and fertilize them yearly. When your flower is done blooming, do not remove the leaves until they have turned brown - the green leaves are gathering nutrients to be stored in the bulb for next years flower!

Lee Dobbins writes for http://www.backyard-garden-and-patio.com where you can get more great gardening tips

[tags]garden, gardening, flowers, landscaping, annuals, plants, bulbs[/tags]

Arbor swings - Taking up anywhere from 20 to 30 square feet when assembled, an arbor swing provides a handsome focal point and a way to enjoy the idle moments of the seasons, swinging outdoors. Arbors with swing parts are generally sold in pieces or panels that require simple assembly. When you shop online, take a look at the various materials available. You will find when comparing different swinging options that materials, size and craftsmanship play a factor in price.

Deciding which arbor to buy

A backyard arbor is one thing, and a garden arbor with a swing is another. A scouring of the internet for swing arbors will lead to specialty merchants selling outdoor wood furnishings and accessories, and, in many cases handcrafting the arbors and swings themselves. This of course, can benefit the consumer by selling perhaps, higher quality arbors swings (though not necessarily so) made from top of the line weather resistant and fungal resistant woods such as western red cedar and teak.

While other woods especially hardwoods like cypress make good choices for outdoor swing arbor sets, so too does pressure treated pine, which is the material used in the popular Uwharrie chair Keep America Beautiful series.

Another thing to compare are components, make sure the hardware is high quality and resistant to corrosion.

Most swings can accommodate two adults comfortably, but if you have several young kids around you may find them swinging away, making it difficult for you to sit yourself down.

If ordering online, swing arbor sets are generally shipped by freight.

Nicole Martins is a contributing writer and researcher for Everything Patio Furniture. Find information and reviews on popular outdoor furniture and patio accessories. For more information about arbor designs, please visit http://www.everything-patio-furniture.com/garden-arbors.htm

[tags]arbor swings, garden arbors, backyard arbor[/tags]

A pond without plants is like cake without icing. Pond plants
fight algae, give fish a hiding place against predators, and
beautify our own little slice of paradise to plunk down in at the
end of a tiring day.

Don’t smother your pond with plants, however. Start with half the
surface area, and don’t let them cover more than two-thirds to
three-quarters at their growing peak. Overcrowding stresses them
out, and hey - it just looks bad!

Don’t let the terms “hardy” and “tropical” throw you when
choosing plants for your pond. Just remember that these terms
refer to the environment in which the plant has originally been
adapted - and not to whether it can be thrown across the room or
how well it looks in a fancy mixed drink.

Hardy pond plants, as a rule, can handle cold temperatures and
frost. Of course, this is relative to your USDA agricultural
zone, found here: http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/ushzmap.html.

Ask your plant professional or check the plant’s label before
taking home that plant that does great in Hawaii, but not so
great in Maine.

Tropicals, on the other hand, pretty much hold true to what
they’re called: They will take a nosedive if temperatures get
much below 70 degrees, turning into a messy mush if it freezes.

But, ah, Grasshopper, there are ways to save even those hardy
plants that aren’t quite up to a northern blizzard, as well as
those tender-toed tropicals with which you’ve fallen madly in
love.

Bury hardy pond plants, pot and all, into a south-facing part of
your yard and cover with a thick, warm blanket of mulch. Or put
them into a garage or basement, making sure they’re kept wet and
have good air circulation.

Tropicals, on the other hand, need light and moisture year
’round. If you don’t have a greenhouse, place tropicals in your
sunniest window and keep misted, several times a day if possible,
to provide the humidity they crave in order to flourish. “Grow
lights” do a fabulous fake of the sun, however, and many tropical
pond plants thrive under them.

Marginal pond plants - those that grow around the edges, or
margins, of a pond - can be either hardy or tropical. Some hardy
marginals are cattail, plantain, and rush. Tropical marginals
include taro, spider lily, and water hibiscus. Of course there
are legions more to lust after in both hardy and tropical
marginals. Place marginals with their pot tops one to six inches
under water. Very tall plants, like cattail, can be moved as deep
as a foot beneath the surface one they’ve gotten full-sized.

Water lilies, however, like their water deep - between 18 and 30
inches - after starting the season in the 6″-12″ shallower end.
This gives them a nice, springtime shot of sunshine to get going
again. And when the plant pro recommends those funny-looking pots
with all the little holes in them, go for it. Pond plants poke
their toes (roots) through them to develop tiny,
nutrient-extracting feeder roots. Meshing with one another, these
roots provide stability and protection against wind, kids, pets,
and adults that have a tendency to stumble into them.

Fertilize pond plants when they need them. “Ha!” you say. “And
when is that?” Well, go back to your plant pro, the Internet, or
the plant label you so wisely saved. Each plant may have
different requirements, but one rule of thumb: Plants need much
more fertilizer in warm-weather months than when it’s cool
outside.

So go have fun with your pond and your plants!

Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several
pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and
pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly
newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over
9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and
receive a complimentary ‘New Pond Owners Guide’ for joining,
just visit MacArthur Water Gardens
>
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[tags]pond, pond plants, water gardening, aquatic plants[/tags]

Snow peas may have been named because in bright sunlight their light green pods look as if they might be tinged with frost. One of the oldest vegetables, the earliest recorded pea was grown in 9750 BC on the Thai-Burma border. Since snow peas are a favorite addition to Asian dishes, this pea might very well have been a snow pea ancestor.

In the large family of legumes, the snow pea (pisum sativum macrocarpon) is a flat-podded pea that bears both pods and seeds that are sweet and edible.

Snow peas aren’t particular about soil quality, but they do need good drainage. Plant snow pea seeds about 2-inches apart and one to two inches deep. Snow peas grow best in full sun, but in an area where plants receive some shade from the midday sun as the season progresses.

Peas are a cool weather crop. Although snow peas adapt better to higher temperatures than regular peas, for best results you should sow seeds as soon as the soil can be worked. For best germination, keep soil moist yet be careful not to over water, since saturated soil will cause your seed to rot. In fact, the biggest problems you face in growing snow peas are root rot and powdery mildew, both of which begin in soil that is too wet. However, once seeds germinate, plants need to be watered regularly for optimum harvest.

Because they are legumes, there is no need to fertilize snow peas. In fact, legumes make their own fertilizer and are often grown as cover crops to replace lost nutrients to soil. However, snow peas, like most varieties of peas, are climbers and grow best with the support of a trellis, fencing, or beanpole.

When temperatures reach a steady 70 degrees, the rate of growth slows and plants begin to die. Harvest peas when pods are about three inches in length but still flat. You’ll need to use your snow peas soon after harvest since they quickly lose their sugar content after they’re picked.

Linda is an author of Gardening Tips Tricks and Howto’s of http://www.gardening-guides.com

Linda writes and inspire you to try new ideas from her own experience.

[tags]gardening ideas, gardening, gardening guides, vegetable gardening, snow peas[/tags]

One of the keys to having a healthy and lush lawn is to aerate it when needed. Sometimes what you may think are insect, under watering or fertilizer problems, are actually happening simply because you are not aerating the soil as frequently as you should.

Soil compaction is an enemy of a good healthy lawn, and it happens when the top 4 in. or so of topsoil become compacted to the point where nutrients, oxygen, and water are prevented from circulating around the grass roots properly. When you aerate the soil, you essentially are loosening it up to allow room for nutrients and air to circulate down into the soil. Soil compaction often becomes a problem in high-traffic areas where people and pets seem to frequent, rather than less traveled areas of the lawn.

A very cheap and inexpensive way to find out if your soil is to compacted and therefore in need of aeration, is to take a simple screwdriver out to your lawn after it has been watered and try to push the screwdriver down into the soil. If the screwdriver goes into the soil with almost no resistance at all, then there is no compaction problem that you need to be concerned about. But on the other hand, if you find it’s difficult to get the screwdriver into the soil, then you’ll need to aerate your soil as quickly as possible.

The really good news about lawn aeration is that for most yards it’s a very inexpensive thing to do. In fact, if your yard is small to medium sized, and especially if the compaction is limited to just a small section of the yard, you can even use something as simple as a spading fork to aerate your soil in those areas. All you have to do is push the tines of the fork into the soil as far as you can and then rock them back and forth. Do this throughout the area that has the compaction problem.

Another very inexpensive solution is to purchase a sod coring tool that actually removes small cores of soil and deposits them on the lawn. These plugs that are left behind contain microorganisms from deep in the ground that can even help decompose the thatch that may have developed in your lawn. So using a coring tool can be beneficial in a number of ways for your yard.

If you have a larger yard, the two methods mentioned above may simply require too much labor to perform. So the best solution in this case would be a power driven core aerater that can be rented usually at a tool rental or local garden store. This machine essentially does exactly what a sod coring tool does, except it automates the process. It also will leave the core plugs on your lawn, which as was mentioned can be very beneficial in themselves, or you can also rake them up and remove them if you wish.

When aerating your lawn, its good too go in one direction first, and then go over the entire lawn in a different direction, perpendicular to what you had just done. If you use this method to go over the entire lawn at least twice you should get great results from your aerating.

If there are spots in your yard where the grass is sparse, you can also combine seeding and aerating at the same time. In this case, you’ll need to go over the lawn perhaps six or seven times to make plenty of holes for the seed. But don’t apply the seed right away. Wait for about a month or so to let the yard heal after the aeration first.

Lawn aeration is a very important, but often overlooked part of good lawn care. But if you follow the guidelines given above you should be able to have a beautiful, healthy, green lawn in no time.

Thad Pickering writes on many consumer related topics including home improvement. You can find lawn mower reviews and lawn tractor reviews by visiting our Home Improvement website.

[tags]lawn, landscaping, yard, front yard, back yard, home improvement, mowing[/tags]

Have you been looking at the same kitchen walls for too long? Does your kitchen paint or wallpaper have you in a funk? Or is a simply a matter of “does your kitchen need a new look”, that your current style went out in the 90’s. Think that this type of work is beyond your ability and requires a contractor? Well think again, I can offer you an easy, cheap, do it yourself solution. Have I gotten your attention yet? Well read on for the easy “do it yourself” tips.

First you need to get some ideas for what you want to do, my suggestion is to look at some home interior magazines for ideas on color schemes to go with. Try picking one or two colors that will blend into the connecting rooms, unless you have “bolder” plans to expand your redecorating to the rest of the house. Once you have an idea on the colors you want, go to your local remodeling store, (I recommend Home Depot, but Lowes is good also) and look at the color swatches that are available. It helps to bring your example with you to make the selection easier and don’t be afraid to ask the salesperson for help, they can be a great aid in providing instructions on your project, plus, that is what they are there for.

First off let me start by saying that painting is probably one of the easiest “do it yourself” things to do around the house, all it requires is a couple of rollers, 2-3 paint brushes, a drop cloth and paint pan and you are ready to go. You are going to want to use a latex paint and more than likely either semi-gloss or gloss, as they are the easiest to keep clean. If you go to places like Home Depot or Lowes, you should ask the sales person if they have “return paint”, they will sell this paint at a big discount (maybe 50% less) and if you are lucky, you can find a couple of gallons of the color you need and save some $$ at the same time. Depending on the color you are painting over, and your new color, you will probably need to get a gallon of “Primer paint” to cover the old paint. If you are replacing wallpaper, you will need to get some “Dif”, which dissolves the wallpaper paste and makes it easier to remove the wallpaper. Another tip I can offer is that if your walls are currently smooth, and you would like to add some texture to them. There is a product called “Paint and Tex”, which is colorless and can be added to any type of latex paint and will give your paint surface the same texture as if you had sheet rock from the beginning.

At this point you may be saying, “Gosh, what is this going to cost”? Well if you are not able to find any “return paint” and have to have it mixed, I strongly suggest using Behr paint. It was recently rated as the best paint on the market by Consumer Report, and I have been using it for more than 10 years and frankly would not use anything else. You may find other brands of paint for a cheaper cost, but take it from me; you will save money in the long run by using Behr, as it will last longer and clean up better. A 1 gallon can of semi-gloss paint will run you about $18-22 at Home Depot and a gallon of “Primer paint” will run about $10-12, which should be enough to cover a 10-12′ X 16-20′ foot room with a single coat of each. If you need or want a second coat then figure $40 for 2 gallons of paint. If you are adding the texture mix a box of “Paint and Tex”, which comes with 2 packages and you use one package for a gallon of paint. That will run about $15. Also the “Paint and Tex” will thicken your paint, which may reduce the amount of paint you need. Your painting kit, which should consist of a couple of rollers, 2-3 paint brushes, a drop cloth and paint pan will run another $15-20, for a total cost of $85 to maybe $100 tops.

Now all that is left is for you to actually paint your room. If you do not have to remove any wall paper, you will need about 2 hours in order to apply the first coat of paint, then maybe 1-1.5 hours for the second coat. If you do have to remove wall paper, that job will probably take a one day on its own, as it involves the spraying of the wall paper and then scraping. Once you have finished the project, you will receive a sense of gratification in your do it yourself project.

If all of the above sounded easy and if you would like additional information on home designs, you can get some great ideas from reading the same article on my website, which is listed in my bio, and following the link by clicking on the title.

I am the Helpful Homemaker. I am the mother of 4 children and have been happily married for 10 years to the “game master”. You can learn more about me at helpful-homemaker.blogspot.com/

[tags]kitchen, paint, Behr, Home Depot, Do it yourself, primer paint, latex, semi-gloss, brush, roller[/tags]